Hotels near Bacari of San Polo and Cannaregio

Bacari are Venice's traditional wine bars, where locals stand at the counter for an ombra, a small glass of wine, and cicchetti such as baccalà mantecato (creamed salt cod) on polenta, sarde in saor (sweet-and-sour sardines) and crostini with seasonal toppings. Cantina Do Mori, said to date from 1462 and tucked behind the Rialto market, is one of the oldest, with copper pots hanging from the ceiling.

October brings autumn ingredients to the counters, from pumpkin and mushrooms to the first radicchio from the Veneto, and cooler evenings suit a slow crawl between bars. In Cannaregio, the Fondamenta della Misericordia and Fondamenta degli Ormesini are lined with bacari that fill with locals at aperitivo time. Most cicchetti cost around €1.50 to €3 each, making this one of the most affordable ways to eat in Venice.

Pro Tip: Start around 18:00, when fresh cicchetti come out, order at the counter and eat standing as locals do, and skip bars with picture menus near San Marco.