Hotels near Chateau d'If and the Frioul Islands

Francois I ordered a fortress on the islet of If in 1524 as a harbour defence, and within decades it had become a state prison. Alexandre Dumas set the imprisonment of Edmond Dantes here in The Count of Monte Cristo, and the cells are labelled accordingly, though no fictional escape ever took place. Admission runs about 6 EUR. The crossing from the Quai de la Fraternite takes 20 minutes each way.

The same Frioul If Express boats continue to Ratonneau and Pomegues, two dry limestone islands joined by a causeway with a sheltered harbour between them. Calanque de Morgiret and Plage Saint-Esteve are where people swim. Shade is scarce and there is one small cluster of restaurants at Port Frioul, so carry water and a hat. A combined ticket covering both stops runs about 16 EUR.

Pro Tip: Take the 09:00 boat to If, then the onward 11:00 service to Frioul instead of returning to the mainland in between. Sailings are cancelled when the mistral blows hard, so keep the day flexible.