Hotels near Shabour

Paris eats far more than French food, and Shabour is the clearest evidence on this list. Assaf Granit's kitchen occupies a low, dark room on Rue Saint-Sauveur in the 2nd, with almost every seat at a counter wrapped around the cooks, who shout, sing and hand the plates over the pass themselves. Cuisine: Levantine, built on Jerusalem technique and French produce. There are two tasting menus: Le Petit Voyage at €81 and Le Voyage Shabour at €152. The signature is the langoustine and lobster with pandan, though the seared foie gras with chicken liver and vinegary carrots and the chocolate mousse with olive oil and Dead Sea salt get talked about just as much.

Gault&Millau scores it 14.5/20 and notes, correctly, that this is not the place for a candlelit dinner - the volume is part of the design, and so is being served by someone leaning across a hot pass. Dinner runs Monday to Thursday from 7pm, with lunch added on Friday and Saturday, and the room is closed on Sunday. Book three to four weeks ahead, because there are not many seats.

Pro Tip: Ask when you book for the corner of the counter closest to the grill, where you see the most cooking. Take the €81 Petit Voyage on a first visit rather than the €152 menu; it covers the same repertoire, and you can add a dessert separately if you are still hungry.