Guatemala travel guides

EU, UK, US, Canadian and Australian passport holders can enter visa-free for up to 90 days. Guatemala is part of the CA-4 agreement with El Salvador, Honduras and Nicaragua, which means those 90 days are shared across all four countries rather than reset at each border. Your passport should be valid for six months. Overstaying results in a fine at departure.

November to April is the dry season and the best window, with clear skies over Lake Atitlán and firm trails for volcano hiking. Semana Santa in Antigua, the week before Easter, produces the most spectacular processions in Latin America and sells out accommodation months ahead. May to October is the rainy season, with afternoon downpours rather than constant rain, greener landscapes and fewer visitors. The highlands are cool year-round, so pack layers regardless.

The main tourist route through Antigua, Lake Atitlán, Flores and Tikal is well travelled and most visits pass without incident, but Guatemala has a higher crime rate than its Central American neighbours and warrants care. Check your government's advisory before booking. Avoid Guatemala City's outer zones, do not travel intercity roads after dark, and use registered shuttles rather than public chicken buses for long journeys. Hiking volcanoes should be done with an established guide company.

The overnight Acatenango hike is Guatemala's signature experience, camping at around 3,700 metres opposite Volcán de Fuego as it erupts through the night. It is also genuinely hard: five to six hours of steep ascent at altitude, freezing temperatures after dark and a punishing descent. You do not need technical skills but you do need reasonable fitness. Reputable operators provide tents, sleeping bags, warm layers and meals. Some add a demanding side trek to the Fuego ridge for closer views.

Ten days to two weeks covers the country well. Allow two or three days in Antigua, two or three at Lake Atitlán exploring the villages by boat, and two for Tikal, usually basing yourself in Flores. Add two days if you want the Acatenango hike, and more for Semuc Champey's turquoise pools or the market at Chichicastenango on a Thursday or Sunday. Road journeys are slow, so build in transit time.

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