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Doha holds nearly the entire population of Qatar and has been rebuilt at extraordinary speed over the past two decades. The Corniche curves for seven kilometres around the bay, with the West Bay skyline on one side and the low domes of the old city on the other.
The Museum of Islamic Art, on its own island at the southern end of the Corniche, is the city's cultural centrepiece, and the National Museum's desert-rose architecture is close behind. Souq Waqif is the place to spend an evening — rebuilt in traditional style, with falcon dealers, shisha cafes and Levantine restaurants. Katara Cultural Village and The Pearl cover the newer end of the spectrum.
Doha works well as a two- or three-day stopover between Europe and Asia. Half-day trips run into the desert to the inland sea at Khor Al Adaid, where the dunes meet the water on the Saudi border.
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November to March is the only realistic window for an outdoor-focused trip to Doha. Daytime temperatures sit in the 20s and evenings are pleasant on the Corniche. From May to September the heat regularly passes 40°C and everything happens indoors.
Take the Doha Metro Red Line, which links the airport to the city in about 20 minutes. Karwa taxis and ride-hailing apps take a similar time. The airport is only 15 km from the centre, so transfers are quick either way.
The Doha Metro is modern, cheap and covers most attractions, with free feeder buses connecting stations to nearby sights. Buy a Karwa Travel Card at any station. Taxis are the alternative, and walking outdoors is unpleasant for much of the year.
Two to three days is right for Doha. One day covers the Museum of Islamic Art, the Corniche and Souq Waqif; a second adds the National Museum, Katara and The Pearl; a third allows a desert trip to the inland sea. It works particularly well as a stopover.
Cover shoulders and knees in public places, including malls, souqs and museums. Qatar is more relaxed than some neighbours but modest dress is expected and signposted. Swimwear is fine at hotel pools and private beaches, and women do not need to cover their hair except when visiting a mosque.
Doha is one of the safest cities in the world, with very low crime and a strong police presence. The greater risk to visitors is falling foul of local law: drinking outside licensed venues, drug offences and public displays of affection all carry serious consequences.
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