Hotels near Angkor Thom and the Bayon

Angkor Thom was the last capital of the Khmer Empire, laid out by Jayavarman VII around 1200 and enclosed by a square wall 3 km on each side with a moat all the way round. Five gates lead in, each approached over a causeway lined with 54 gods on one side and 54 demons on the other, all hauling on a giant naga. The south gate is the best preserved and the standard way in.

At the exact centre stands the Bayon, a temple of 37 surviving towers carrying more than 200 serene stone faces. Its outer gallery holds 1.2 km of bas-reliefs showing naval battles against the Cham, market scenes, cockfights and cooks at work - everyday Khmer life rather than mythology. North of the Bayon, the Baphuon, the Terrace of the Elephants and the Terrace of the Leper King run in a line and take another hour on foot.

Pro Tip: Reach the Bayon before 08:00 or after 15:30. The faces need side light to read properly, and midday sun flattens them into grey blocks. Walk the upper terrace clockwise so the best-lit faces come last.