Hotels near Jemaa el-Fnaa

Jemaa el-Fnaa is Marrakech's main square and the reason UNESCO created its list of Masterpieces of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity in 2001. By day it is orange-juice stalls, henna artists and snake charmers; from late afternoon, dozens of numbered food stalls set up in rows, smoke rises from the grills, and storytellers, musicians and Gnawa bands gather circles of listeners.

October evenings are the best of the year here, warm enough to sit at the stalls without the heat of summer. Try harira soup, grilled merguez, snail broth or a tagine, and agree prices before ordering, as touts can be persistent. Photographing performers usually comes with a request for a tip, so keep small coins handy.

The 12th-century Koutoubia Mosque minaret, just west of the square, is Marrakech's landmark and most beautiful at sunset.

Pro Tip: Take a table on one of the café terraces overlooking the square about an hour before sunset, watch the food stalls set up, then go down for dinner once the grills are going.