Hotels near Old Muscat, Al Alam Palace and the Jalali and Mirani Forts

Old Muscat is the original walled town, reached through a gate in the city wall and quiet in a way the rest of the capital is not. At its heart stands Al Alam Palace, the ceremonial residence of the Sultan, with its flared blue and gold columns. You cannot go inside, but the approach along the ceremonial avenue is open to everyone and the facade is the single most recognisable image of Muscat after the Grand Mosque.

Two Portuguese forts from the 1580s, Al Jalali and Al Mirani, sit on the rock outcrops either side of the palace and guard the old harbour entrance. Both are closed to the general public, so treat them as backdrop rather than destination. Bait Al Zubair, a private museum of Omani dress, weapons and household objects, is a five-minute walk away and charges 2 OMR (about 4.70 EUR). The whole quarter takes about two hours.

Pro Tip: Park at the free lot on Al Saidiya Street and walk the loop anticlockwise: palace gates, then the seafront path under Al Mirani, then the National Museum of Oman directly opposite. It removes all backtracking.